Longshore Drift Rate Calculator

Estimate the potential sand moved along a beach by obliquely breaking waves, or combine two wave classes into a net and gross annual drift budget.

🏖️ Longshore Drift Rate Calculator
Breaker wave height (Hb)
m
0.16
Breaker angle to shoreline (θb)
°
090
Class 1: breaker height
m
Class 1: signed angle (+ one way, − the other)
°
Class 1: share of the year
%
Class 2: breaker height
m
Class 2: signed angle (+ one way, − the other)
°
Class 2: share of the year
%
Wave height basis and coefficient K
Breaker index (κ = Hb / hb)
ratio
Water density (ρ)
kg/m³
Sediment density (ρs)
kg/m³
Sediment porosity (p)
fraction
Potential drift rate
—
Per year (bulk volume)
—
Per year (thousands)
—
Per year (mass of grains)
—
Immersed-weight rate
—
Breaking depth hb
—
sin(2θ)
—
Share of the 45° maximum
—
Coefficient K used
—

Net annual drift
—
Gross annual drift
—
Drift ratio (net / gross)
—
Net direction
—
Class 1 per year
—
Class 2 per year
—
Net (mass of grains)
—
Gross (mass of grains)
—
Calm or other time
—

🏖️ What is Longshore Drift?

Longshore drift, also called littoral drift, is the movement of sand and gravel along a coast, parallel to the shoreline. It happens because waves usually reach the beach at a slight angle. The breaking waves push water and sediment up the beach at that angle, and the backwash and the longshore current in the surf zone carry them along the shore. Over a year this zigzag movement can add up to hundreds of thousands or even millions of cubic metres of sand passing a single point. The longshore drift rate is the volume or mass of sediment that crosses a fixed line perpendicular to the beach per unit time.

Coastal engineers and geomorphologists estimate the rate to design harbour entrances and jetties, size beach nourishment projects, plan sand bypassing, predict how fast a spit will grow, and judge whether a stretch of coast is likely to gain or lose sand. This calculator uses the CERC formula from the Shore Protection Manual, which assumes the transport is proportional to the longshore component of wave energy flux at the breaker line. It works from the breaker height and the angle between the breaking crests and the shoreline, and it turns the answer into cubic metres per second, thousand cubic metres per year and tonnes per year.

Three distinctions matter. First, the result is a potential rate for an unlimited supply of loose sand, not a measured quantity. Second, it is not the same as coastal erosion or beach profile change: sand can move along the coast without any net loss, and a beach erodes only when more leaves than arrives. Third, the formula uses the bulk volume of sand including pore space, so the mass of grains is smaller by the factor (1 minus porosity) times the grain density. The CERC formula is usually accurate to within a factor of about two unless K is calibrated against local data.

The second mode adds an annual view. You enter two wave classes, each with a breaker height, a signed angle and the share of the year it occurs, and the calculator adds the signed contributions. It reports the net drift, the gross drift and the drift ratio, which tells you whether the coast is one-directional or has opposing transports that largely cancel. To find the breaker height from deep water waves, start from the significant wave height calculator, and for wave speeds and wavelengths see the ocean wave speed calculator.

📐 Formula

Q  =  K · ρ√g / (16 √κ (ρs − ρ)(1 − p)) · Hb5/2 · sin(2θb)
Q = potential longshore transport rate as bulk volume including pores (m³/s); multiply by 3.156×107 s/yr for m³/yr
K = empirical coefficient: 0.39 when Hb is the significant breaker height (Shore Protection Manual, after Komar and Inman 1970), 0.78 when Hb is the RMS breaker height
Hb = breaker wave height (m); θb = angle between the breaking wave crests and the shoreline (degrees)
κ = breaker index Hb / hb (default 0.78); g = 9.80665 m/s²
ρ = water density (1025 kg/m³ seawater); ρs = sediment density (2650 kg/m³ quartz); p = porosity (0.4)
Other outputs: mass in tonnes per year = Q × 3.156×107 × ρs(1 − p) / 1000; immersed-weight rate I = (ρs − ρ) g (1 − p) Q in N/s
Annual budget: each class contributes Qi × 3.156×107 × (percenti / 100) with the sign of its angle. Net is the signed sum, gross is the sum of absolute values, and the drift ratio is net / gross.
Example: Hb = 1.5 m and θb = 10° give Q = 0.0856 m³/s, about 2.70 million m³/yr.

📖 How to Use This Calculator

Steps

1
Choose a mode. Pick Single wave to find the potential drift from one breaker height and angle, or Annual budget to combine two wave classes with their share of the year.
2
Enter the wave and sediment values. Type the breaker height in metres and the angle between the crests and the shoreline in degrees. Choose K to match your height definition, and adjust the breaker index, densities and porosity if your site is not quartz sand in seawater. In budget mode, give opposite directions opposite signs.
3
Read the drift rate and the chart. The results show the rate in m³/s, thousand m³/yr and tonnes per year, or the net drift, gross drift and drift ratio. The chart shows where your angle sits on the sin(2θ) curve, or how each wave class adds to the net.

💡 Example Calculations

Example 1 — Moderate Swell

Hb = 1.5 m, θb = 10°, seawater, quartz sand, Hs with K = 0.39

1
The combined coefficient is 0.39 × 1025 × √9.80665 / (16 × √0.78 × 1625 × 0.6) = 0.09086, and Hb5/2 = 1.52.5 = 2.7557
2
sin(20°) = 0.3420, so Q = 0.09086 × 2.7557 × 0.3420 = 0.08564 m³/s
3
Per year, 0.08564 × 3.156×107 = 2,702,674 m³, or 4,297,252 tonnes of grains. At 10° this is only 34.2% of the 45° maximum.
Q = 0.0856 m³/s, about 2.70 million m³/yr
Try this example →

Example 2 — Storm Waves

Hb = 3.5 m, θb = 25°, seawater, quartz sand

1
Hb5/2 = 3.52.5 = 22.918, and sin(50°) = 0.7660
2
Q = 0.09086 × 22.918 × 0.7660 = 1.595 m³/s, about 19 times the moderate swell of Example 1
3
If this lasted a whole year it would be 50,342,871 m³; the breaking depth is 3.5 / 0.78 = 4.49 m, and the immersed-weight rate is 15,252 N/s
Q = 1.595 m³/s, which is 76.6% of the 45° maximum
Try this example →

Example 3 — Small Lake

Hb = 0.4 m, θb = 20° in fresh water (ρ = 1000 kg/m³)

1
With ρ = 1000 the coefficient becomes 0.39 × 1000 × √9.80665 / (16 × √0.78 × 1650 × 0.6) = 0.08730, and 0.42.5 = 0.10119
2
sin(40°) = 0.6428, so Q = 0.08730 × 0.10119 × 0.6428 = 0.005679 m³/s
3
Per year: 179,216 m³, or 284,954 tonnes. Lakes have short fetches, so waves of this size are present only part of the year.
Q = 0.00568 m³/s, about 179 thousand m³/yr if constant
Try this example →

Example 4 — Two-Class Annual Budget

Class 1: 1.2 m at +12° for 55% of the year. Class 2: 1.8 m at −15° for 25% of the year.

1
Class 1: Q = 0.09086 × 1.22.5 × sin(24°) = 0.05830 m³/s. Over 55% of the year this gives +0.05830 × 3.156×107 × 0.55 = +1,011,913 m³/yr
2
Class 2: Q = 0.09086 × 1.82.5 × sin(−30°) = −0.19748 m³/s. Over 25% of the year this gives −1,558,135 m³/yr
3
Net = 1,011,913 − 1,558,135 = −546,223 m³/yr; gross = 1,011,913 + 1,558,135 = 2,570,048 m³/yr; drift ratio = −0.213
Net = −546,223 m³/yr (negative direction), gross = 2,570,048 m³/yr
Try this example →

❓ Frequently Asked Questions

What is the CERC formula for longshore transport?+
The CERC formula says the volume of sand moved along a beach is proportional to the longshore component of wave energy flux at breaking. In the form used here, Q = K rho sqrt(g) / (16 sqrt(kappa) (rho_s - rho) (1 - p)) times Hb^2.5 times sin(2 theta). It gives the potential rate in cubic metres per second.
What value of K should I use in the CERC formula?+
Use K = 0.39 when Hb is the significant breaker wave height, the value recommended by the Shore Protection Manual and derived from the Komar and Inman 1970 tracer study. Use K = 0.78 when Hb is the root-mean-square breaker height. The two give the same answer for the same sea state.
At what angle is longshore drift greatest?+
At 45 degrees between the breaking wave crests and the shoreline. The rate follows sin(2 theta), which reaches 1 at 45 degrees and falls to zero at 0 degrees (crests parallel to shore) and at 90 degrees (waves running along the beach).
How do you convert m3/s of longshore drift to m3/year?+
Multiply by the number of seconds in a year, 3.156 x 10^7. A potential drift of 0.0856 m3/s becomes about 2.70 million m3 per year if the same waves acted all year, though real wave climates vary, so the budget mode is better for annual totals.
What is the difference between net and gross longshore drift?+
Gross drift is the sum of the sand moved in both directions, counted as positive amounts. Net drift is the signed sum, so transport one way cancels transport the other way. A coast with large gross but small net drift moves a lot of sand back and forth yet loses little overall.
What is the drift ratio?+
The drift ratio is net divided by gross. It runs from minus 1 to plus 1. A value near plus or minus 1 means waves push sand almost entirely one way, while a value near 0 means two opposing directions nearly cancel. Many exposed coasts have ratios between 0.3 and 0.9 in magnitude.
What is the breaker index kappa?+
The breaker index is the ratio of breaker height to the water depth where the wave breaks, Hb / hb. A common value is 0.78. It turns the breaker height into a breaking depth and wave speed, so a smaller kappa implies deeper breaking and slightly more transport.
Does this calculator give the true volume of sand or the bulk volume?+
It gives the bulk volume, which includes the pore space between grains, through the (1 - p) term with p = 0.4. Multiply the bulk volume by rho_s (1 - p) to get the mass in tonnes, which the calculator also reports so you can compare with dredging records.
How accurate is the CERC formula?+
Without calibration it is good to about a factor of two. With site measurements, such as trapped sand against a jetty, K can be calibrated and the formula then predicts within roughly 50 percent. Laboratory and field studies show that the standard K often overpredicts.
Does longshore drift cause coastal erosion?+
Drift moves sand but does not itself erode a beach. Erosion occurs when a stretch of coast loses more sand downdrift than it receives updrift, which this calculator does not evaluate. The net drift shows the imbalance only if sand supply and barriers are known.

What is the CERC formula for longshore transport?

The CERC formula says the volume of sand moved along a beach is proportional to the longshore component of wave energy flux at breaking. In the form used here, Q = K rho sqrt(g) / (16 sqrt(kappa) (rho_s - rho) (1 - p)) times Hb^2.5 times sin(2 theta). It gives the potential rate in cubic metres per second.

What value of K should I use in the CERC formula?

Use K = 0.39 when Hb is the significant breaker wave height, the value recommended by the Shore Protection Manual and derived from the Komar and Inman 1970 tracer study. Use K = 0.78 when Hb is the root-mean-square breaker height. The two give the same answer for the same sea state.

At what angle is longshore drift greatest?

At 45 degrees between the breaking wave crests and the shoreline. The rate follows sin(2 theta), which reaches 1 at 45 degrees and falls to zero at 0 degrees (crests parallel to shore) and at 90 degrees (waves running along the beach).

How do you convert m3/s of longshore drift to m3/year?

Multiply by the number of seconds in a year, 3.156 x 10^7. A potential drift of 0.0856 m3/s becomes about 2.70 million m3 per year if the same waves acted all year, though real wave climates vary, so the budget mode is better for annual totals.

What is the difference between net and gross longshore drift?

Gross drift is the sum of the sand moved in both directions, counted as positive amounts. Net drift is the signed sum, so transport one way cancels transport the other way. A coast with large gross but small net drift moves a lot of sand back and forth yet loses little overall.

What is the drift ratio?

The drift ratio is net divided by gross. It runs from minus 1 to plus 1. A value near plus or minus 1 means waves push sand almost entirely one way, while a value near 0 means two opposing directions nearly cancel. Many exposed coasts have ratios between 0.3 and 0.9 in magnitude.

What is the breaker index kappa?

The breaker index is the ratio of breaker height to the water depth where the wave breaks, Hb / hb. A common value is 0.78. It turns the breaker height into a breaking depth and wave speed, so a smaller kappa implies deeper breaking and slightly more transport.

Does this calculator give the true volume of sand or the bulk volume?

It gives the bulk volume, which includes the pore space between grains, through the (1 - p) term with p = 0.4. Multiply the bulk volume by rho_s (1 - p) to get the mass in tonnes, which the calculator also reports so you can compare with dredging records.

How accurate is the CERC formula?

Without calibration it is good to about a factor of two. With site measurements, such as trapped sand against a jetty, K can be calibrated and the formula then predicts within roughly 50 percent. Laboratory and field studies show that the standard K often overpredicts.

Does longshore drift cause coastal erosion?

Drift moves sand but does not itself erode a beach. Erosion occurs when a stretch of coast loses more sand downdrift than it receives updrift, which this calculator does not evaluate. The net drift shows the imbalance only if sand supply and barriers are known.